Slides and How to Shoot em'
by Rebecca Blume, Arizona State University
Tungsten Lights
--Always use a tissue or glove to handle the bulb
--Never leave lights on between shots
--Remember to write down the times when you begin using the bulb and when you have finished. The power of tungsten light only stays around 3.5 hours of use.
--If possible, use a ceramic based lighting fixture. It will keep from overheating and prevent possible bulb explosions.
The Camera
--Always keep your aperture on the highest number. Everything in Photography works backwards. Therefore, an aperture setting of f/16 or f/22 will give your shot greater depth of field and better focus. Aperture openings such as f/5.6 or f/2.8 will cause a blurry result. The reason for this is the aperture opening at a smaller number is too large to filter light in a an evenly focused manner.
--Bracket your shots to ensure proper exposure. Use your light meter to read the scene and determine your shutter settings. Shoot one image at the reading, another one shutter stop below, and one more a shutter stop above. While this seems like a waste of film, it will ensure that you have at least one good exposure.
--If shooting 2D work use a macro lens. This allows for close ups and a broader range of distances from which to shoot the work.
The Film
--Daylight film is generally fine for outdoor shoots. For gallery or studio shoot illuminated by Tungsten light, use film color balanced for tungsten light. In Kodak products the film speed (ASA) is prefaced by a T. Typical film speeds would be T160 and T64.
--Slower film speeds of 50, 64, or even 100 will give you the most detail and the least hassle.
--When shooting large paintings or prints (5' x 5' or larger) consider using a "4 x 5" camera (a camera that produces a negative measuring 4" x 5". This will hold the kind of detail you need for larger work.